As the sun began to set on our five-week vacation to India, it was time for some excitement in Bombay (it was still called “Bombay” in 1995, so that’s what we’re sticking with).
Our cousins lived in Delhi, so we dropped in for a visit on the way to the airport. It was my cousin’s birthday that day, which meant a cake had been arranged, along with a plethora of Indian sweets.
I quickly discovered that the cake was neither moist nor decadent as cakes should be, so I turned my attention to the gulab jamuns. After twenty minutes of behaviour that I cannot recall, I’d supposedly eaten five or six of them. For those of you who don’t know a lot about gulab jamuns, let’s just say: sugary syrup, milk solids, double cream, and they’re fried.
It was a bad idea but I hadn’t eaten lunch.
My bad idea followed me to the driveway as we said goodbye to make our way to the airport. Seconds later, my bad idea unleashed itself in a three-foot radius covering half of the driveway. It was my greatest performance of projectile vomit to-date.
I vomited again when we arrived at the airport, and once more when I found the nearest bathroom. About a half an hour later we discovered that our flight would be delayed until the following morning.
As the news set in to the weary travelers, we found ourselves a spot on the floor that we could sleep on.
In the next few hours I puked five or six more times. At last I was sent to the airport “doctor”, who had set up his practice beyond a bunch of darkened corridors, in what looked to be a glorified closet. He didn’t say much, but approached me with a big-ass smile and an even bigger needle.
By the time I returned our flight had moved ahead a couple of hours. It was time to go.
So that flight to Bombay…hmm. It was ninety minutes, and that’s all I really know, since I spent the ninety minutes passed out and drooling on my sister’s shoulder. I think I still owe her for that one.
With my body weakened and my belly fragile, I took in what I could of the bustling city. Bombay offered the first I’d seen of beaches and ocean waves. Now THIS was a vacation.
For our first afternoon we squeezed our way through a crowded bazaar, realizing very quickly that Bombay was indeed a “tourist” spot. In other words everything was over-priced, times ten. For example, where you’d normally buy any clothes and shoes for a fraction of the price that you’d see in North America, everything here was…equal. The audacity.
For some odd reason I found myself entranced by a shoe store. I couldn’t explain the feeling at the time, but something about the modern look of the store, and its contrast to everything else that felt traditional was intriguing. It also had all the latest “Western” styles of boots and shoes. Could it be that I was feeling homesick?
My parents decided to enter the store and try to find some shoes for my dad. Knowing right away from the product selection and the rude-looking staff that the place was over-priced, I cringed in preparation for my parents to make a scene.
“How much are these shoes?” asked my dad.
“Two thousand rupees”
“Two thousand rupees?!?! I could go back home and buy three pair of shoes at a price like that!” he lied.
Awkward silence, sales staff rolling their eyes. Sigh.
Once we had firmly established our middle-class lot in life, we stuck to the food stalls and stuffed our hungry faces as the sun began to set. Everyone except for ME, that is. I was stuck with a bowl of chicken noodle soup, except there wasn’t any chicken or a single noodle. Just a bowl of hot yellow water, salted to the extreme. Nice try, India.
The following day was much of the same, but in our last evening in Bombay, we hit the beaches.
Now don’t get confused with your typical concept of hitting the beaches. This means something very different for an Indian family of twelve. For me it meant a bright red t-shirt tucked into my jeans, with sandaled feet so I could get a little wild and feel the sand. So wild.
I had come to this place for an adventure, so when I saw the big white horse and the man with the sign saying “Forty Rupees”, I wanted in.
Forty rupees later I was striding across the beach atop this beautiful steed. I looked like those chicks on the romance novel covers, minus the shred of silk that was supposed to be a dress (and plus a red t-shirt and a pair of jeans). For forty rupees I was allocated two whole laps across the beach. It lasted five minutes and I felt like a girl who’d been finally released of her over-protective life. This feeling only lasted as long as I didn’t look down, since the horse was on a leash with its master on the other end, running along to keep up.
A horse on leash? Yes. But it was Bombay baby, and at last I had my very own Indian adventure…
[This concludes my back-track of my family's trip to India, circa 1995. I visited India once again in 2006. I will post about that trip at a later time, since it involved a whole different set of recollections, mostly surrounding: perverts, the Dalai Lama, propositions, gold, a magnificent look at textiles, and being followed by more perverts in an air-conditioned mall. And of course, here's the very first post on the Voyage to India, if you feel like starting from the top...]
