After six or seven days in India, I was beginning to grow accustomed to this Indian village. It no longer phased me to be woken every morning at 5am, as random speakers in the village would blare out the morning service from a nearby temple. I was also getting used to bathing myself with a bucket, since my uncle’s place didn’t have any kind of shower (not that I was complaining…I was happy enough to have a functioning toilet).
In terms of digestion I was riding high, with not a single day of sickness in the books so far. My sister hadn’t been so lucky, as she’d recently finished puking an entire stack of pancakes on the ground outside the house (my parents always smuggled pancake batter from Canada, for it was a rare commodity and our cousins loved it).
Today there had actually been a reason for the 5am wake-up call. We were headed to Amritsar, to visit the famed Golden Temple. I didn’t know much about this structure, at least not beyond the mini-model that existed in our living room at home. I did however know that it was THE historic temple of Sikh temples, with a dazzling golden look to boot.
I chose a rather plain and standard Indian suit for the excursion (bluish with muted pink), as no one attempts to look flashy on a pilgrimage. Except for the occasional pilgriming slut.
Our cousins didn’t come this time, so it was only the eleven original travellers (my family and extended family), packed in our vans for a three-hour journey. No stops…
***
…At 10am the sunshine glimmered on a boxed-in lake of sorts. It was a stunning sight, but nothing compared to the epic Golden Temple that sat on the middle of the lake, practically floating or so it seemed. I pressed my face to the window for a better view, but we turned in the other direction and that was that.
We were now in a standstill of traffic, as tourists and locals were inching their way to the temple. We parked our vans a long way off, deciding to walk the rest of the way.
Once we were only minutes away from the outer entrance, things got a little crazy. It was a sea of merchants, running around with armfuls of wares. From Golden Temple replicas to salty snacks to religious symbiology, they had it all for a price you couldn’t miss. By the time we’d made it past we were minus a fair amount of rupees (but plus some trinkets to hang on the rearview mirror).
At the outer entrance we took off our shoes as is custom, and headed to the sub-temple. Here we payed our respects, listened to some readings and at last made our way down the marble steps for a meal. To me this was the most important part, ’cause even though I’m all about worshipping (oh wait, no I’m not), a girl’s gotta eat!
Twenty minutes later, our stainless steel cups and compartmentalized plates were empty (and our legs were a little sore from sitting cross-legged on the ground). All of this meant that the time had arrived to step inside the Golden Temple. No wait, first it seemed that the men had disappeared down a separate marble staircase. The women led us down a similar staircase in the other direction. As I adjusted my eyes to the absence of sun, I became aware of a startling sight: women in their underwear (right up to the granny age) and some of them even naked, bathing themselves in a shallow pool of water.
This was the very same water from the lake surrounding the Golden Temple. Holy water I was told. My mother told my sister and I where to take off our clothes (so we could be a part of the holy action too). But of course, that was not going to happen. We refused. My mother and aunt were extremely displeased, and in the end they could only convince us to roll up our Indian suits to our knees, for the purpose of wading around for a bit.
I felt no guilt at shunning this religious custom, nor do I feel that now. Today I’m sure I’d disrobe with little issue (maybe), but as a self-conscious teen completely repulsed by my own naked body? Not on this trip!
Once my posse of women had dried their flesh and clothed themselves again, we were back in the sunlight waiting in line with hundreds and maybe more. The sun beat down on our heads as our queue inched forward..
…Three hours later we were sitting inside the opulent Golden Temple. Id’ love to describe the glorious feeling of being inside the temple at age fourteen, but to be honest I can’t exactly recall it. It’s more the awkward bathing with ladies that I cannot seem to forget. That’s certainly not the type of “memory ranking” one strives for, but I was only fourteen afterall…what else could I expect from my self-involved memory?
Nevertheless I’ll give the Golden Temple the “two thumbs up”, so please check it out if you’re ever in the neighbourhood (and don’t worry, I observed it properly in 2006).
[This post is another in the series of my first family trip to India in '95. Here is the next installment]


Getting a hair-cut hasn’t always been easy.
I have never been religious, but I’ve managed to stay somewhat “spiritual” for most of my life. 







